Post by kobalt on Jun 23, 2005 23:24:04 GMT -6
Imprecise, dull and clunking steering can ruin the classy feel of the nicest Aurora or Seville. In many cases the culprit is a worn outer tie rod end. A bad outer tie rod end is surprisingly easy to diagnose and simple as well as inexpensive to replace; a worthwhile and rewarding repair that brings back that "new car" steering feel. Note: this procedure as described DOES NOT require front end re-alignment.
** g-body outer tie rod end replacement **
Disclaimer: I am not liable whatsoever in case you cause death/injury/damage to yourself/others/property by following these directions.
Symptoms: considerable dead spot in center of steering wheel, audible clunk/crunch while turning at moderate speeds
Difficulty: beginner
Time required: 45-75mins (both sides)
Tools required:
- jack stand (for safety)
- hydraulic jack
- open wrench 14mm*
- open wrench 17mm*
- open wrench 18mm*
- pliers
- rubber mallet
- tie rod/ball joint puller (available for rental at any autozon3)
- wheel lug wrench
*in case open wrenches are unavailable two adjustable wrenches can be used instead
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/001.jpg)
Parts required:
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/002.jpg)
- 2x outer tie rod end part# 26067288 or equivalent
** part 1 - diagnosis **
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/003.jpg)
Loosen the wheel lugs with the wheel lug wrench and apply the parking brake
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/004.jpg)
Place the jack under the rear subframe mount as shown and jack up the car
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/005.jpg)
Place a jackstand under the subframe for safety!
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/006.jpg)
Remove the wheel. To diagnose, strike the tie rod with the rubber mallet - excessive movement or cluking indicates a worn outer tie rod end
** Part 2 - replacement **
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/007.jpg)
Using pliers remove the cotter pin - simply pull out
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/008.jpg)
Loosen and remove the castle nut using a 14mm open wrench
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/009.jpg)
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/010.jpg)
Press out the tie rod using the tie rod puller as shown - should go easy
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/011.jpg)
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/012.jpg)
Use the 18mm wrench to turn the outer tie rod counterclockwise. Support the outer tie rod with a 17mm wrench on the inner tie rod adjusting nut - make sure this nut DOES NOT move and mark it if necessary
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/013.jpg)
Spin off the outer tie rod while making sure that the adjusting nut remains stationary
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/014.jpg)
The worn outer tie rod end
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/015.jpg)
Install the new outer tie rod end. Remember to tighten the tie rod end to the adjustment nut not the other way around - once again keep the adjustment nut stationary!
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/016.jpg)
Insert the tie rod end into the steering knuckle
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/017.jpg)
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/018.jpg)
Replace and tighten the retaining nut and if applicable, the cotter pin. Some OEM outer tie rod ends use an oblong nut, not a castle nut effectively doing away with the cotter pin
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/019.jpg)
You are finished, replace the wheel and do the other side - unless your tie rod end is equipped with a grease fitting
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/020.jpg)
Use a grease gun to grease the tie rod end. Do not overgrease - the tie rod is sufficiently greased once resistance is felt while greasing
Now replace the wheel, lower the car and repeat on the other side!
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/021.jpg)
Final Thoughts: Doing one side might take care of the clunking noise, but the steering responsiveness truly improves once both sides are replaced. Take my word for it - replace the outer tie rod ends on both sides, it's worth it!
** g-body outer tie rod end replacement **
Disclaimer: I am not liable whatsoever in case you cause death/injury/damage to yourself/others/property by following these directions.
Symptoms: considerable dead spot in center of steering wheel, audible clunk/crunch while turning at moderate speeds
Difficulty: beginner
Time required: 45-75mins (both sides)
Tools required:
- jack stand (for safety)
- hydraulic jack
- open wrench 14mm*
- open wrench 17mm*
- open wrench 18mm*
- pliers
- rubber mallet
- tie rod/ball joint puller (available for rental at any autozon3)
- wheel lug wrench
*in case open wrenches are unavailable two adjustable wrenches can be used instead
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/001.jpg)
Parts required:
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/002.jpg)
- 2x outer tie rod end part# 26067288 or equivalent
** part 1 - diagnosis **
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/003.jpg)
Loosen the wheel lugs with the wheel lug wrench and apply the parking brake
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/004.jpg)
Place the jack under the rear subframe mount as shown and jack up the car
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/005.jpg)
Place a jackstand under the subframe for safety!
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/006.jpg)
Remove the wheel. To diagnose, strike the tie rod with the rubber mallet - excessive movement or cluking indicates a worn outer tie rod end
** Part 2 - replacement **
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/007.jpg)
Using pliers remove the cotter pin - simply pull out
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/008.jpg)
Loosen and remove the castle nut using a 14mm open wrench
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/009.jpg)
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/010.jpg)
Press out the tie rod using the tie rod puller as shown - should go easy
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/011.jpg)
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/012.jpg)
Use the 18mm wrench to turn the outer tie rod counterclockwise. Support the outer tie rod with a 17mm wrench on the inner tie rod adjusting nut - make sure this nut DOES NOT move and mark it if necessary
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/013.jpg)
Spin off the outer tie rod while making sure that the adjusting nut remains stationary
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/014.jpg)
The worn outer tie rod end
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/015.jpg)
Install the new outer tie rod end. Remember to tighten the tie rod end to the adjustment nut not the other way around - once again keep the adjustment nut stationary!
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/016.jpg)
Insert the tie rod end into the steering knuckle
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/017.jpg)
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/018.jpg)
Replace and tighten the retaining nut and if applicable, the cotter pin. Some OEM outer tie rod ends use an oblong nut, not a castle nut effectively doing away with the cotter pin
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/019.jpg)
You are finished, replace the wheel and do the other side - unless your tie rod end is equipped with a grease fitting
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/020.jpg)
Use a grease gun to grease the tie rod end. Do not overgrease - the tie rod is sufficiently greased once resistance is felt while greasing
Now replace the wheel, lower the car and repeat on the other side!
![](http://www.weekendwars.com/sls/tierod/021.jpg)
Final Thoughts: Doing one side might take care of the clunking noise, but the steering responsiveness truly improves once both sides are replaced. Take my word for it - replace the outer tie rod ends on both sides, it's worth it!