Maintenance: G-body outer tie rod end replacement

[kobalt]

Imprecise, dull and clunking steering can ruin the classy feel of the nicest Aurora or Seville. In many cases the culprit is a worn outer tie rod end. A bad outer tie rod end is surprisingly easy to diagnose and simple as well as inexpensive to replace; a worthwhile and rewarding repair that brings back that "new car" steering feel. Note: this procedure as described DOES NOT require front end re-alignment.

** g-body outer tie rod end replacement **

Disclaimer: I am not liable whatsoever in case you cause death/injury/damage to yourself/others/property by following these directions.

Symptoms: considerable dead spot in center of steering wheel, audible clunk/crunch while turning at moderate speeds

Difficulty: beginner

Time required: 45-75mins (both sides)

Tools required:

- jack stand (for safety)

- hydraulic jack

- open wrench 14mm*

- open wrench 17mm*

- open wrench 18mm*

- pliers

- rubber mallet

- tie rod/ball joint puller (available for rental at any autozon3)

- wheel lug wrench

*in case open wrenches are unavailable two adjustable wrenches can be used instead



Parts required:



- 2x outer tie rod end part# 26067288 or equivalent


** part 1 - diagnosis **




Loosen the wheel lugs with the wheel lug wrench and apply the parking brake



Place the jack under the rear subframe mount as shown and jack up the car



Place a jackstand under the subframe for safety!



Remove the wheel. To diagnose, strike the tie rod with the rubber mallet - excessive movement or cluking indicates a worn outer tie rod end


** Part 2 - replacement **




Using pliers remove the cotter pin - simply pull out



Loosen and remove the castle nut using a 14mm open wrench





Press out the tie rod using the tie rod puller as shown - should go easy





Use the 18mm wrench to turn the outer tie rod counterclockwise. Support the outer tie rod with a 17mm wrench on the inner tie rod adjusting nut - make sure this nut DOES NOT move and mark it if necessary



Spin off the outer tie rod while making sure that the adjusting nut remains stationary



The worn outer tie rod end



Install the new outer tie rod end. Remember to tighten the tie rod end to the adjustment nut not the other way around - once again keep the adjustment nut stationary!



Insert the tie rod end into the steering knuckle





Replace and tighten the retaining nut and if applicable, the cotter pin. Some OEM outer tie rod ends use an oblong nut, not a castle nut effectively doing away with the cotter pin



You are finished, replace the wheel and do the other side - unless your tie rod end is equipped with a grease fitting



Use a grease gun to grease the tie rod end. Do not overgrease - the tie rod is sufficiently greased once resistance is felt while greasing

Now replace the wheel, lower the car and repeat on the other side!



Final Thoughts: Doing one side might take care of the clunking noise, but the steering responsiveness truly improves once both sides are replaced. Take my word for it - replace the outer tie rod ends on both sides, it's worth it!

[twinswin]

Outstanding instructional guide. This does work on classics as well right? All are G-Bodies? If so I might have a project for Saturday afternoon! Thanks again.

BaJ

[TJM]

great tutorial!

do you have a tutorial for struts? ;D

stabilizer bushing can bring back that "new car feel" too.

[kobalt]

tjm said:

great tutorial!

Thanx!

do you have a tutorial for struts?

The fronts are starting to squeak when cold so you can expect one sometime

stabilizer bushing can bring back that "new car feel" too.

You can't really tell in the small pictures, but the fact is they are a bit worn. I'll be replacing those soon and perhaps install a Boneville GXP (nice and thick!) sway bar while Im at it

[Custom88]

awesome write-up. Glad to see you back posting here! It's nice to have your insight on some common problems.

[erw38]

Great withe up! Next, I think you should do a complete write up on repainting a car!

[kobalt]

twinswin said:

Outstanding instructional guide. This does work on classics as well right? All are G-Bodies? If so I might have a project for Saturday afternoon! Thanks again.

BaJ

You are welcome. I own a Cadillac Seville but the car shares its g-body platform with the Aurora. Mechanically the cars are 99% identical down to the part#.

[kobalt]

custom88 said:

Glad to see you back posting here!

Remember I live in NJ, the world's capital for various pollutants and carcinogens. I was recovering from my fall into a toxic vat, where I grew a third arm out of my chest:

[Custom88]

hey, that's cool though. I can think of more than one use for having a third arm.

[erw38]

kobalt said:

[

Remember I live in NJ, the world's capital for various pollutants and carcinogens. I was recovering from my fall into a toxic vat, where I grew a third arm out of my chest:

Good to see you actually grew the correct hand. Now when a girl asks you to dance, you can say that you *really* have two left arms.

[95mushroom]

Would it be worth it to do the inter-ends as well? Or do those don't really wear out?

[akble]

have 97 Autobahn torn aprt at moment with 91K- is it worth changing them now? have not driven it so have no idea of any symtoms existing- should I use factory or is there better options available in aftermarket?

[ice1ce]

Great job on the write up and safety tips as well. Too many trust just a jack to keep the car up. this procedure is the same for any car I have ever worked on. Note for those of us who are not from NJ. When doing the tie rod ends I always loosen the locking nut before popping it out of the wheel assembly. This makes it easier to get it loose with a single wrench and only two arms.