Replaced it today. Wasn't too bad of a job. Took a couple hours. I would agree with the comment about the "one way valve" boot. I highly recommend pulling the old shaft out from the bottom and loading the new one in from inside. I tried to install from the bottom at first but the rag joint got caught up in the boot. When I pulled it back apart, the entire lower boot came with it. At that point I could see that the top edge of the lower boot is folded inside itself, thus creating that one-way valve effect. There's also a piece of spongy foam sandwiched inside the fold. Should've taken a picture... Got it all put back together though and it drives like a dream. Hope it lasts...
Last Edit: Oct 10, 2009 13:40:45 GMT -6 by justmatt
2003 Aurora 4.0 62k 1978 Trans Am 6.6 1954 Chevrolet Bel Air 2-door hardtop 235c.i. 99k
Finally got around to changing my ISS today.Got a few pics to go along with the procedure.
1. Park with the front wheels straight.
2. Remove the interior trim pieces. Black piece above the brake and gas pedal is held by 2 screws and a plastic push pin. Remove the piece on the side of the dash(pic 1) by prying at the rear of the panel. Once the clips are out, you can slide rearward to remove. Remove the little change holder(pic 2) by pushing the tab at top and then pulling straight out, it will unsnap from the bar that holds it. Lastly, remove the knee trim(pic 3) by pulling rearward at the top of it. You need to disconnect the light and then undo the temp sensor, it's 1/4 turn bayonet type.
Once all that was removed I could see where the black boot was cut when the ISS was lubed by the dealer prior to my owning it.(pic 4)
Could not get the steering wheel to lock in place with the screwdriver thru the hole deal. Even took the bottom plastic piece off the column, but nothing there, so I put that back together. I tried the duct tape thing around the wheel, but it didn't stick very well. Either my cheap duct tape or too much Armor All on the plastic, so I skipped that too. I did find a place where the shaft had a mark on it that lined up with a spot on what I think is the steering wheel speed sensor.(pic 5) Used this for reference later during reassembly and was very careful about moving the steering wheel.
3. At this point, I jack up the left front and removed the wheel to access the bottom of the ISS. Still had a little trouble seeing it and with working area, so I remove the front disk, which meant remove the brake caliper and the caliper bracket. I did not need to jack up both sides, just the left.
Pushed the boot up enough to see the pinch bolt, which was position perfectly for removal. Held the boot up by wedging a screwdriver on the back of the knuckle and the tie rod.(pic 6) 11mm socket and long extension to remove the bolt. Did not loosen it yet.
4. Went back under the dash and removed the black boot that was already cut to get to the inside bolt and nut. 13mm socket to remove the nut.(pic 7) Just loosened the nut. The clear plastic boot appears to me to be a replacement, not original?
5. Went back out to the bottom bolt and removed it. Then took a long screwdriver and pried it up off it's shaft. Back inside and removed the nut and bolt, then slide it off the shaft.
6. Now the most fun part. Others have said that they got the shaft out from the outside, down thru the boot over the steering rack. This looked impossible to me and I really didn't want to cut the outside boot for obvious reasons; leaks. So back to the inside and I tried pulling it in, but the clear inside boot wasn't cooperating, so I took the knife to it. It also had 3 metal wires in it that I had cut. Once I did that the ISS came out from the inside very easily. Maybe because it was a replacement as I said earlier?(pic 8)
7. Oriented the new ISS so that the bottom knuckle was correct to get the bolt in on the outside and slide it into the boot from the inside. Slide the top onto the shaft and put the nut and bolt on finger tight.
8. Back under the outside, tried to get the bottom of the ISS on the shaft for the steering rack. Was not having much luck, so I stuck a #2 phillips screwdriver thru the bolt hole and used this to guide it down onto the shaft where it needed to be.(pic 9) This worked well. Made sure I was still lined up(pic 5) and installed the bolt and tightened. Put the outside boot back down to it's original position.
9. Back inside and tighened the nut and bolt. Put the inside black boot in place and wire tied back together.(pic 10)
10. Put everything back together. Went for a test drive, no more clunking. ;D Total time was a little over 3 hours.
Last Edit: Nov 28, 2009 20:20:15 GMT -6 by oldwino
Post by aurora2001tan on Nov 29, 2009 18:57:55 GMT -6
You can get it out though the bottom, if you are alone you will pull on it and extend the shaft. You want to avoid that. You need someone in the car to push on the shaft while you pull it down and out. I did it on a 4.0, it came right out. Having a helper, either a teenager to monkey around or hot chick to help inside the car makes all the differance.
2001 3.5 107k-296k Running with no cat now after original plugged and new one plugged after a year.high oil consumption is happening but no clouds of smoke. To be replaced in 2016! Personal quote " To each thier own erratic insyncrosee's"
I know it was replaced 10/03 at 19k and lubed again 9/06 at 44k from the service records. I think the inner boot(clear one) must of been replaced on 1 of those occasions. It came out very easily once I slit the inner boot.
I just had my alignment shop replace my intermediate steering shaft with part number 26810450 and it took out 99% of the clunking. They charged me $106 to change it. It still does it once in a while mostly on a dry steer when it is not moving. But I am going to live with it. Like I said, 99% gone which is MUCH better than before. Thank you to everyone posting on this subject.
for what it is worth I've never replaced mine. I've lubed the original ISS twice in 185k. Also, if anyone wants to make the job easier, simply drill and tap the shaft and then install a grease fitting. Bam, just slam it full of grease anytime you start to hear a clunk. If I remember right, the grease I used was whatever was in my gun....happened to be my Polaris grease left over from fall snowmobile prep. Back to the grease fitting..........there was a write up over on the GMC Sierra forum that went into detail on this fix. Used a 7/16 bit, then a 1/8" bit, then a 1/4 tape and a grease fitting.