Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 27, 2011 11:01:11 GMT -6
Hoping someone else has had this problem, have searched with no luck. I turned it off and it would not start, no crank no anything. Then it started cranking but it would not start.
Fuel pump works but is not getting power to it. Used a power probe to power it up and it does turn on. Security light stays on when trying to start it. None of my other warning lights are coming on when you turn the key on like they are supposed to and my DIC also completely quit working. Tried running a scan but the scanner says it can't make a connection. It is a cheaper scanner that just brings up the codes and it does work on other vehicles.
First checked all fuses, then I tried switching the fuel pump. After that I tested my fuel pump with power probe and found it turns on. Switched body control module, light control module, computer and various other modules with no change.
I am also thinking about trying another computer out of my parts car, it is possible that the computer I am trying could be bad. It should be a good one, but it is possible. I know my parts car ran when I parked it.
According to the fsm it could be the theft control module, but these are $300 at the dealership and you can only install a new one. Used ones do not work because they program themselves when you first hook them up. Since I am not sure this is what is wrong with it I do not want to risk losing money on a part I don't need. That still doesn't explain my dic not working or my dash warning lights not working either.
I am about to put it all back together and take it to a shop. I am hoping a better scanner could find some problems with the security or something.
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Post by nelson480 on Mar 27, 2011 11:03:43 GMT -6
MY friend has this same issue with a 89 vette. Still unresolved.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 27, 2011 11:12:21 GMT -6
Ouch!
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on Mar 27, 2011 11:29:59 GMT -6
If the fuel pump fuse isn't getting power, you have to follow the schematic upstream. There has to be a common denominator. Could be the ignition switch or connector. Maybe your vats isn't getting good connection and reading wrong resistance?
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RCA1186
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Post by RCA1186 on Mar 27, 2011 14:00:44 GMT -6
You tried the fuel pump relay?
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on May 27, 2011 7:16:08 GMT -6
Still not running. I am working on getting it towed closer to home so I can start working on it again. I tried resetting the security system with no luck. Yes, I tried the relay. Bobs, I did track it down to the theft module, but like I said can't afford to buy one to try it. Have been trying to find someone that can reset one. Once I get it closer to home I have access to some better scanners,so I can try to get some more info. I will get it running, if not I will have 2 parts cars for sale lol.
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on May 27, 2011 8:52:43 GMT -6
Hopefully you can just bypass the module, at least get her running, then decide if module is worth it.
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Post by lanceslambos on May 27, 2011 13:49:56 GMT -6
dang man. i presume you've done the grounding mod on this one.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Jul 18, 2011 9:41:12 GMT -6
I think fuel pump is getting a signal sometimes, because I have been getting a little fuel to the rail. I still have no spark, no dic, no dummy lights, no fuel. FSM keeps leading me to the theft module, but I don't know why my dic or dummy lights do not work. I tried switching my dic the other day with no change. Since I can't afford a theft control module to try I have another idea. I am going to remove, PCM, theft control module, and ignition lock cylinder from my parts car and swap all this out, the car did run fine a year ago. Is there anything else related that I should swap? I will probably grab the fuel pump out of it, too. I have a few of them here, but you never know.
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Post by lanceslambos on Jul 18, 2011 11:07:21 GMT -6
something else that likely won't help but couldn't hurt is unhook both battery cables and hold them together for about a minute. this will allow every bit of charged energy to completely exit the system so that every module,resistor, capacitor, fuse, printed circuits, wires and everything is 0. sometimes things can hold "memory"
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Jul 19, 2011 10:14:58 GMT -6
Cool thanks, Lance. Could not hurt to try.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 25, 2011 9:24:31 GMT -6
Went to visit a friend that has a auto shop. He has a '97 Cadillac sitting in the bay with the exact same problem I am having. He bought a new computer and ignition with no luck. I am still thinking theft control module, just waiting to get my parts car towed to the shop for the parts swap.
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Post by aurora4 on Aug 25, 2011 11:22:58 GMT -6
i hope u get it fixed. Also how many aurora's have you owned? 8, 9, 10? why do 97's have the most problems?
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 25, 2011 17:36:46 GMT -6
Thanks! I have bought 12-13, I need to go back and check sometime. This one I am trying to fix is the 1st one I bought. Now I just have it and a twin parts car. Not sure about the '97s, but they all have their problems. I don't care for '95s because of the steel front suspension and little brakes. I do like the 95-96 wheels, though.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 29, 2011 9:28:36 GMT -6
Parts car is at my shop now. I am watching a theft module on ebay, though, if it's cheap enough I will pick it up and save myself the hassle.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 31, 2011 14:57:53 GMT -6
I have a new theft control module on the way. It's for a 98 Buick LeSabre, but from what I can tell it will work. Wish my @ and I luck.
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Aug 31, 2011 23:48:44 GMT -6
Good luck, Randy's @! ;D
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 1, 2011 22:42:09 GMT -6
Sweet, thanks man!!
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 7, 2011 16:17:32 GMT -6
No change with new module. I am calling around and getting diagnostic prices from other shops.
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Post by beastboy1976 on Sept 7, 2011 16:19:47 GMT -6
Best of luck to you Randy. I know we all feel kinda bummed when our Aurora's are sick.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 7, 2011 17:18:30 GMT -6
Thanks. I just keep imagining the point when I can sit in it, turn the key and it starts. I remember what that's like.
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Post by ntrenn on Sept 7, 2011 18:36:28 GMT -6
Randy - as basic as it is - are you getting fire to the plugs? Fuel to the rail?
Your problem really sounds like a dead crank sensor circuit....
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 8, 2011 6:32:42 GMT -6
No spark, no fuel, and starter won't work any more, it did for a while, no DIC, no obd2, no dummy lights. When I jump the starter it turns over fine. When I jumped the starter, I also had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, no movement in the gauge at all.
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on Sept 8, 2011 8:15:05 GMT -6
No dummy lights at all? Not even the battery light with key on engine off? I was thinking PCM, but I don't think that particular light is controlled by pcm, straight from alternator. Can you post a schematic of the anti-theft module? When you checked the fuses, did you test continuity or voltage? I'd check for voltage on both sides of each fuse (mainly in the back.) There's a significant interruption of power somewhere.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 8, 2011 8:41:01 GMT -6
Thanks bobsblue.
The only one that lights up is the security light. I did look at my old theft module and it shows no signs of electrical problems, no smells or burns or anything. I will look for a schematic of it to post.
All I did was visually inspect all fuses, but I will take your advice and test them all with my volt meter, I was thinking the same thing this morning. It really does seem like some kind of power interruption, because this all happened at once, no warning signs.
I am also going to lift the car and visually check all the wiring I can. In case something got pinched during the motor swap.
When I turn the key I can hear a clicking in the engine compartment, I will have someone help me this afternoon to see what it is. Then when I turn the key with the drivers door open, it clicks under the hood and backseat.
I will try to think of anything else I can, but if I can't track it down I am going to have it looked at. Local stealership charges a $70 flat diagnostic fee, as long as they don't have to track wires or get too deep. I would also have to figure out how to get it there, it is downhill most of the way, lol. I would really like to have my car for the upcoming meeting.
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Sept 8, 2011 9:06:37 GMT -6
We want you to have it also, Randy! ;D I've gotta drive that beast! I will also give you crap If you've made the switch from 7 Auroras to 1/2. ;D ;D
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 8, 2011 13:09:53 GMT -6
Lol, no doubt. Hey if you count my car, my parts car and all my parts, isn't that worth at least one, . Even if it doesn't run, lol. I have checked my dash fuses and I am getting a weird reading on most fuses. Crank .10 volts The rest of these were reading .01 on both sides of the fuses, which is almost nothing. I don't know if it is normal, but I would guess that it is not. TMNSS Hvac relay Convertor/02 sensors DIS Shift Sol Linear EGR Chime(Chime works still) PCM Turn lamps(noticed at this point turn signals don't work either) INJ 1 INJ 2 AIR BAG The rest of the fuses besides the ones above were all reading around 12.6. I am moving on to the back seat fuses, now, then under the hood. I will be checking into the FSM, also.
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Sept 8, 2011 13:26:06 GMT -6
Odd, I wonder why? Could the positive terminal to the fuses be loose or cut or something? They're not getting power or some reason.
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on Sept 8, 2011 13:32:34 GMT -6
That's what I'm thinking, a main trunk line somewhere. Of course the $*($& chime still works! lol I'm sure there's some common denominator to what's not working, just gotta work backwards from there. I'll see if I can figure anything out, not sure how different the 95 is.
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Post by nelson480 on Sept 8, 2011 14:13:33 GMT -6
Have you tried to have the dealer reset the BCM?
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