h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Sept 24, 2015 14:45:57 GMT -6
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skizo
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WOT ... is there any other way?
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Post by skizo on Sept 24, 2015 15:03:25 GMT -6
My water pump sounded a lot like that before I replaced it. I'd also get up close and personal with any idler assemblies (if it has one) and the power steering pump. invest in a decent mechanic's stethoscope. Worth their money in gold when trying to isolate a noise. I think I paid $15 for mine at a local auto parts. Goes without saying, you want to be careful where you put the 'scope with the motor running, right? <G> PS ... I've got a 4.0L classic, but a lot of the plumbing works the same, only different.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Sept 24, 2015 15:52:37 GMT -6
Sounds loudest at the power steering pump...
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skizo
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WOT ... is there any other way?
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Post by skizo on Sept 24, 2015 17:39:51 GMT -6
You got good ears! I was holding my stethoscope up to the monitor and couldn't tell ... <G>
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Sept 24, 2015 17:59:09 GMT -6
^Ya gotta have a touch screen...
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Post by wfooshee on Sept 24, 2015 18:27:44 GMT -6
Changes with engine speed? Changes with A/C off/on? Changes with steering input? Answering those might help narrow it down.
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h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Sept 24, 2015 19:54:14 GMT -6
Yes that is correct, it sounds like the noise is coming from the top pulley, I looked at a diagram and it says its the power steering pump.
Im also hearing a gurgling type sound behind the dash from in the cabin, when I press the gas pedal at low speed it gets louder. Would that be the water pump?
Thanks for your response.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Sept 24, 2015 21:36:19 GMT -6
Ye sounds same as on my Mothers 2002 3.5 aurora and that sound was water pump
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h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Oct 1, 2015 5:42:54 GMT -6
Changes with engine speed? Changes with A/C off/on? Changes with steering input? Answering those might help narrow it down. Its more noticeable at low speeds when turning. + The power steering fluid level in the reservoir is low. It looks dark like it could use a flush. What are the chances that if I change the fluid it will fix the problem. I dont want to replace the whole PS pump if not needed.
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RCA1186
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Post by RCA1186 on Oct 1, 2015 6:58:15 GMT -6
Doesn't hurt to try, but more than likely if it is low you have a leak, could be the gurgling you are hearing. You might not have to replace the pump, could be noisy from lack of fluid. Problem being that running the pump dry will eventually kill it. I'd fill it and have someone turn the wheel stop to stop while you check around for leaks.
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h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Oct 1, 2015 10:17:03 GMT -6
Doesn't hurt to try, but more than likely if it is low you have a leak, could be the gurgling you are hearing. You might not have to replace the pump, could be noisy from lack of fluid. Problem being that running the pump dry will eventually kill it. I'd fill it and have someone turn the wheel stop to stop while you check around for leaks. I checked again but this time i pointed a light in there so I could see better and it was about half full so i dont think its leaking. It did smell burnt to me.. im not familiar with the smell of power steering fluid though. I picked up some Prestone Dex-coolant, Valvoline oil, Power steering fluid, Air filter, oil filter, coolant tabs, surge tank cap and windshield wiper fluid. What should I try replacing first the water pump or power steering pump? My temp gauge sits at about 5/8 when warmed up.
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h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Oct 1, 2015 10:24:38 GMT -6
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Oct 1, 2015 22:37:47 GMT -6
^Haha, nice! Not a big fan of Fram, but hey, at least it's new! You may not have to change either(yet), see how the fluid changes go. FWIW, I'd say that PS pump is on it's way out though, sounds like the bearing is toast. A 5/8 temp gauge would give me a stroke, lol. But, to be honest, I have no idea where the 3.5s normally run... ...Im also hearing a gurgling type sound behind the dash from in the cabin, when I press the gas pedal at low speed it gets louder The sound is coming from the heater core. It's trapped air. You may have a slight blockage preventing the air from passing through. These cars are pretty good about "burping" themselves, but you could try back-flushing the heater core when you do the coolant change just to be sure. I don't have the heart to tell you what else can cause this gurgling...
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h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Oct 2, 2015 4:55:56 GMT -6
Update: I drove to to the store, turned my heat on with fans on low. Then after about 1-2 mins the check engine light came on. How do you do the back flush? This will be my first coolant change. I am going to use this as reference. aurorah.proboards.com/thread/5633
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h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Oct 2, 2015 10:27:20 GMT -6
I found a video on how to flush a heater core here www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9SIafVsqycSo I need to buy the Prestone AF-KIT Flush kit? It sounds like water is sloshing around from in behind the dash im guessing its the heater core that has air in it. Should I get a thermostat while im at it?
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skizo
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WOT ... is there any other way?
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Post by skizo on Oct 2, 2015 11:34:54 GMT -6
Ah, for the good old days when a temp gauge actually told you something ... If "5/8" is one step above halfway, not sure I'd get all that concerned ... there's still a lot of room till it hits hot? That said, sounds like your machine is basically showing signs of aging, especially if the former owner was a bit lax when it came to routine maintenance. If you're handy with a wrench, might be time to just step back, start with the basics, and go from there. Fluid and filter change, grab any error codes that are causing your CHECK ENGINE light to come on, and move on to the bigger stuff. Changing the afreeze should include a backflush, which should eliminate trapped air as a concern. Depending on mileage, the water pump and thermostat would be my first next project if that doesn't cure the overtemp condition. It's a complicated machine, and best taken on in stages. Baby steps ... baby steps ... Oh. Power steering pump probably still has the original fluid. NOBODY changes that out, and it does get contaminated over time. Usually siphoning the reservoir is good enough. There I'd suggest using a "high mileage" type with conditioners. Lucas makes some good stuff for that. Drain it, fill it, drive it a bit to let it circulate, repeat as needed till the fluid looks decent.
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h4wk
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Post by h4wk on Oct 2, 2015 12:33:11 GMT -6
See pic for 5/8 mark The previous owner said he bought the car about a year ago, from a dealer. He also said the car needed new rear shocks.. I seen a message pop up on the DIC that read Service Stability System. Here is another video of the sound the car makes. www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0sZ7xKua5w
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Oct 2, 2015 23:34:22 GMT -6
Here's mine. Only been above this mark once, when the water pump belt tensioner pulley broke. Other than that, 10 o or 110 o out, it stays right there. That's why I said 5/8 would freak me out. But again, I don't have a 3.5, just seems a little high. Most modern temp gauges are designed to read normal operating temp in the center of the scale... As for back flushing, I'm only recommending you do the heater core. I think that kit is for flushing the entire engine. And I DO NOT recommend using any caustic chemical on any part of your cooling system! BTW, SERV STABILITY SYSTEM without a ABS or TRAC OFF light is commonly caused by a bad steering input (steering wheel position) sensor. There's a write up in the stickies. Doubt bad shocks would cause it, but they're cheap and easy to replace, slap some new ones on and see what happens!
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