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Post by Custom88 on Feb 15, 2006 17:26:52 GMT -6
For you 2nd gen owners, go back to page four of this thread. I posted part numbers.
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Post by Genopsyde on Mar 8, 2006 18:13:53 GMT -6
mine finally arrived today, couldn't get the tabs bent right. did you bend both sides, or just one?
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Post by 95mushroom on Mar 9, 2006 0:48:08 GMT -6
Bent to clear the hood, or to fit the screws?
EDIT: I remembered you have a 98. Screws instead of the studs.
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Post by Genopsyde on Mar 9, 2006 6:53:21 GMT -6
bent to clear the master cylinder.
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Post by Genopsyde on Mar 10, 2006 18:08:07 GMT -6
*cough*bump*cough*
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Post by kbpickle on Mar 11, 2006 15:58:30 GMT -6
Custom88, does the STB interfere with removing the engine heat shield/sound shield on top?
I went today to order one from a Pontiac dealer, and he reported that he could get one bracket and the bar, but GM was out of stock on the other bracket. How do you wind up with more of one side bracket than the other?
Any negative results from the STB?
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Post by 95mushroom on Mar 11, 2006 22:23:07 GMT -6
Sorry Geno, I was just able to use a couple spacers for mine. Dan (Letitroll) bent each side down a little bit (using a vice and leverage) to clear the brake reservoir. I think on all of your cars, it will rest slightly on it. There isn't a tremendous amount of space there.
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Post by Genopsyde on Mar 12, 2006 0:02:57 GMT -6
i've decided to use spacers combined with longer bolts.
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Post by Letitroll98 on Mar 12, 2006 10:43:41 GMT -6
Sorry Genopsyde, didn't see this post sooner. Longer bolts would be just fine but make sure you get ones hardened to the proper rating, which will be listed on the bolt head. Look for the number of slash marks, 3 evenly spaced slashes for a grade 5, or 6 slashes for a grade 8 (grade 2, the Home Depot stuff has 3 slashes between 10 and 2 o'clock). It's raining and I'm in house clothes so I'm not going out to look, but I think they are grade 5. And use locking washers in addition to any spacers, not a part you want coming loose.
I found it fairly easy to make a double bend on the mounting bracket ( --\_ )to get it to fit over the brake reservoir yet not push the hood up too much, while still lining up the bolt holes. By too much I mean so that it affected the opening and closing of the hood latch, I think it will always ride on the hood insulation a bit. There was some trial and error to make the fit good, I'd say 3 or 4 times bolting and unbolting with adjustments in between, not too onerous. Best of luck with however you mount it, it will truly transform the handling character of the car.
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Post by Genopsyde on Mar 25, 2006 12:40:30 GMT -6
well the longer bolts with spacers isn't working for me either, the bar rests just on the brake reservoir yet the hood bends a lot. I still need to find the perfect combination of washers with the front and back bracket holes, but it's snowing pretty hard now so i'm done for today. if anyone has anymore pointers, plz let me know..
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Post by Custom88 on Mar 25, 2006 12:55:22 GMT -6
Custom88, does the STB interfere with removing the engine heat shield/sound shield on top? I went today to order one from a Pontiac dealer, and he reported that he could get one bracket and the bar, but GM was out of stock on the other bracket. How do you wind up with more of one side bracket than the other? Any negative results from the STB? the STB didn't interfere with taking off my engine cover. It's still possible to remove it if need be. I have no negatives to report on this mod. The ride was stiffened up nicely and nothing bad came of it.  . I'm not sure how GM would run otu of one bracket and another, that's GM for ya though.  |
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Mar 25, 2006 13:10:55 GMT -6
What do these cost now?
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Post by kbpickle on Mar 25, 2006 14:15:18 GMT -6
For the 2nd Gen STB from a 2005 Pontiac Bonneville GXP STB, per dealer quote:
$23 one bracket
$94 bar
no quote on the out of stock bracket, but presumably $23.
No shipping charges quoted through the dealer.
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Post by waynesullivant on Jul 4, 2006 4:58:35 GMT -6
that cable is part of a grounding kit? is it long enough to move to another nut?
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Post by 95mushroom on Jul 4, 2006 9:54:46 GMT -6
that cable is part of a grounding kit? is it long enough to move to another nut? Its just a fisheye loop for the grounding wire connection. Spaces out all 1/2mm. |
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Post by Letitroll98 on Jul 18, 2006 7:47:36 GMT -6
The thread that will not die!
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Post by centennialman on Jul 18, 2006 8:59:23 GMT -6
I guess it doesn't deserve to die:
In any case, I purchased the GXP brace via a Caddy dealer in Norwood, MA. The prices were a little less - also note that the part number has changed for one of the brackets.
Bar 25768516 ($89.51)
Bracket left 10360987 ($19.36)
bracket right 25768515 ($19.36)
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Post by centennialman on Aug 15, 2006 9:52:39 GMT -6
OK. Finally got around to installing the GXP STB on my 01 3.5L. It was a breeze. The only glitch was that neither the brackets nor the bar shipped with the bolts, of which 4 (2 each side) are required. I guess I should have figured this, because I'm sure GM wants at least $4 each. So, I went to the local BRAFASCO store and got 10 bolts and 25 lock washers for $8.24 total, including government vig (the minimum they would sell).
If you are needing bolts, then they are 8mm X 1.25, length = 60mm, grade = 10.9.
Some installation notes:
0) No modification of any parts was required - the assembly fits as if it were designed for this car.
1) Total time to install brackets and bar is under 30 minutes
2) The shock tower bolts are easily long enough for the extra meat introduced by the brackets. They still protrude beyond the holes in the upper shock.
3) One of the 3 shock tower bolts on each side is a little awkward because the rubber shield along the edge of the firewall cowling is in the way, but you can easily move it away to get at the bolt.
4) You need to remove the coolant bottle cap and use an extension to tighten one of the 4 bolts holding the bar to the right clamp.
5) No nuts are required because the brackets have threaded washers welded to them; they also have some kind of green stuff (locktite?) in the treads to prevent the bolts from loosening.
6) I also used lock washers on the 4 bolts.
7) Tighten up the 4 bolts to clamp the brackets to the bar - they will cinch in wards. Do not over tighten, or you will snap the bolts. I managed to snap one, but it was easy to remove with a pair of vice-grips, since it protrudes beyond the welded washer. Good thing I purchased extras.
The STB does seem to have tightened up the feel of the front suspension, but I haven't really pushed it through any corners yet.
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Post by kbpickle on Aug 15, 2006 19:40:01 GMT -6
To all the junior mechanics like me - - apart from the supposed handling improvements, this is a really good excuse to buy your very own torque wrench! I got my first one just for this installation.
The strut tower bolts should be tightened to 35 ft-lbs (That's 47 Newton-meters for our Canadian members. Oops, and overseas members, too.) These values come from the 2005 Pontiac Bonneville installation instructions for the "Cross vehicle brace", as Pontiac calls it.
And, the four bracket bolts should be tightened to 17 ft-lbs, or 23 N-m. Like centennialman I used the 60 mm long bolts because that's all I could find locally, but I think 55 mm long (about 1/4" shorter) would make a slightly neater installation since the ends of the bolts do protrude about 3/8", even with a fender washer under each head to take up some length. I'm not sure that 50mm long would be long enough.
I know just about nothing about tools, but I went to several places and just felt better about buying from Sears, home of Craftsman, rather than an auto parts store (Advance, AutoZone, PepBoys, etc.) where I think their merchandise is generally targeted for the cheapest possible price point. After all, this is a tool to be used on an Aurora - it just seems like it should be a quality tool.
Ken
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Nov 7, 2006 11:09:12 GMT -6
Well, I just "Bit the bullet" and ordered the brace for my 1st 98 Aurora. Here goes!
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Nov 15, 2006 21:57:56 GMT -6
OK it's on as of today. You know what? Didn't notice a dif. If you had put it on without me knowing it, I would not have noticed. Oh well, it's on there and now it can be proud it has one just like our Olds Ninety-Eight does straight from the factory. :-)
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Post by macadamiaman on Nov 16, 2006 0:26:34 GMT -6
I don't have one - but from experience on other cars, you have to really push the struts on the Aurora to its limits to notice it (around turns and whatnot). If you drive conservatively, you probably won't notice. This is why I really want one, but I just can't justify nearly $100 - during college I have bigger financial priorities  |
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Nov 20, 2006 11:59:12 GMT -6
Yeah, I see what you mean now. Keeps the car little more "level" and stiff in turns.
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Post by deepthinker22 on Nov 27, 2007 21:47:08 GMT -6
Let me know where you got it. I want to make a beefier one but have no idea where to start. We have some rediculously riged metal at the shop that I want to try but need a genereal dimanesion first. (try grinding instead of bending. )
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Post by latenight72 on Nov 28, 2007 8:19:49 GMT -6
The thread that will not die! |
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scottydl
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Post by scottydl on Nov 29, 2007 13:11:44 GMT -6
Let me know where you got it. I want to make a beefier one but have no idea where to start. Read page 1 of this thread. |
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Post by deepthinker22 on Feb 21, 2008 14:46:49 GMT -6
Alright Ordered The brackets, They look good enough for this thing. I am going to use martensetic steel from work for the actual "brace." The trick for me is going to be finding a straight, smooth, flat piece long enough for this thing. It's either that or this wierd alluminum we have had latley. Our carbide tip chopsaw as no trouble with it what so ever but try bending it. Plus its EXTREMLY light.
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Post by deepthinker22 on Mar 6, 2008 13:53:29 GMT -6
I wonder what other parts this applies to? (swaybars, shocks, struts, aftermarket hoods...etc.) |
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Post by latenight72 on Mar 6, 2008 18:41:39 GMT -6
I wonder what other parts this applies to? (swaybars, shocks, struts, aftermarket hoods...etc.) Hood - no. Swaybars - same. Shocks - not much better. Struts - not much better. |
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Post by deepthinker22 on Mar 15, 2008 13:19:23 GMT -6
I just got my brackets in, and I cut up the "steel" on the laser. Should have it formed, bent, and welded and on before april. Just one thing.
Before I pull of the bolts is there any procedure to this, do I jack up the car first. What do I do to install the brackets. I looked at the thing and I wasn't sure if it would spring open upon removing the bolts if I jacked it up.
With the shocks and struts being not much better, are they still better than the ones currently.
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. I'm not sure how GM would run otu of one bracket and another, that's GM for ya though. 
