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Post by dano01 on Dec 30, 2006 14:51:01 GMT -6
Did the Autobrain fix today. $33 vs $400 is worth the hassle and fumigation. I could see that one of the little tabs on my old piece was damaged, so no amount of techron was going to fix it. Looking at the way the sender works I wonder if the techron "fix" even works on these particular cars? Doesn't seem to be due to any type of reaction with silver (as I had read), just premature wear of the metal fingers.
Question to Autobrain - How did you figure out that this particular harness (out of all the GM fuel sender parts) would have the same arm piece? Did you work in a parts department?
Thanks for a great idea!
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mal
Aurora Watcher
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Post by mal on Jan 6, 2007 12:55:17 GMT -6
Thanks to this tip, I now have a properly working gas gauge again in my 97. I did it this morning. The only wrinkle I ran into was the ring that holds the unit into the tank was pretty rotten. One of the 5 tangs was rusted away on the tank as was the ring at that spot. I did get it out, repaired it and put it all back together with what was left and it is fine. I caulked around it just to make sure I had a good airtight seal. My car has 170k miles on it, but it doesn't have any (other) rust. Weird spot for it to occur.
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Post by aurorabrain on Jan 6, 2007 13:27:56 GMT -6
Question to Autobrain - How did you figure out that this particular harness (out of all the GM fuel sender parts) would have the same arm piece? Did you work in a parts department? Thanks for a great idea! That part is a service bulletin fix for trucks that have a high resistance fuel pump wire harness problem where the power and ground wires to the pump melt inside the tank. It was the cheapest part that i knew of that had a level sensor with the correct float arm on it. As most of you know, yes i work at a dealer. I'm the assistant manager at a Chevy Buick dealer, and have been there for over 3 years. Its quite a different work environment if you consider that i ran my own computer store for 2 years before that.... |
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Post by guy48065 on Jul 16, 2007 20:58:06 GMT -6
It took me a few months to get around to tackling this project but I got the kit as described, removed the "finger" and replaced the worn-out original one. All went smoothly. Thank you Oldsmobile (or whomever at GM) for putting an access plate in the trunk!!
And thank you aurorabrain for the how-to :-)
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Post by aurorabrain on Jul 16, 2007 21:08:32 GMT -6
I doubt you'll find this how-to anywhere else on the internet. It's an ACNA exclusive, but most GM vehicles can be repaired this way also. The newer fuel modules are using a different style sensor, but most are the same 97-04.
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Post by guy48065 on Jul 17, 2007 20:26:23 GMT -6
It's sure nice to have a guage that works correctly below 1/2 tank :-)
I can't believe how shot the contacts were on the old wiper. What are they made from--brass??
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Post by north06 on Jul 31, 2007 4:31:05 GMT -6
I had the same problem: the sending unit needs to replaced!
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Post by aurora2001tan on Aug 1, 2007 18:55:26 GMT -6
Deal me in at 122 k miles
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Post by Bigluck on Aug 30, 2007 19:57:21 GMT -6
Don't know if the classics are like the 2nd gen but I had the same problem an ended up getting a new fuel pump. Warranty covered it but without would have been 500 or so dollars.
When I say same problems, I mean if I was close to empty or sometimes even at half-tank then it would shoot all the way up to full then sometimes go all the way down to low fuel.
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Post by kaykirk on Aug 30, 2007 22:48:27 GMT -6
Don't know if the classics are like the 2nd gen but I had the same problem an ended up getting a new fuel pump. Warranty covered it but without would have been 500 or so dollars. When I say same problems, I mean if I was close to empty or sometimes even at half-tank then it would shoot all the way up to full then sometimes go all the way down to low fuel. I have never had a problem like that with my classic...knock on wood, but my daughter has a pontiac grand prix and it has been acting funny for quite some time. now it does not work at all, she tracks how many miles she has driven to determine when to fill up again  so far so good I have also heard of this problem on other GM models. |
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Post by aurorabrain on Aug 31, 2007 2:03:01 GMT -6
The post i made about how to fix the level sensor cheaply works for most GM models.
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Post by Aurora3 on Oct 6, 2007 11:22:37 GMT -6
Mine is acting funny but not exactly the same, mine will read correctly until I start driving and then it stays at full or 3/4 to full, until I park and then next time I turn on my car its correct again. But when driving no matter what its 3/4 to full. Does this sound like the same problem? If so please let me know so I can do this, I really want a full working gas gauge.
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Post by aurora2001tan on Oct 6, 2007 18:12:48 GMT -6
Yes the gauge will behave wierd like that. Do it. Just did mine. You can do it with a full tank of gas but you dont have to. Getting it out of the hole in the tank was a little tricky for me. I used the notch in the rubber at 3 o clock position to put a small screwdriver to help pry on the pump plastic and clear the tank opening. Other than that its easy.
I was able to remove both gas lines, the big line was a little hard to shift back and off the nipple...but it found the room. You dont want to break these lines.
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Post by Aurora3 on Oct 6, 2007 18:43:08 GMT -6
Thanks now I can get started and have a fully working gas gauge.
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Post by aarcuda on Nov 12, 2007 12:45:03 GMT -6
According to the print out on my service record, the '02 that I just picked up had its fuel tank sensor replaced in 2005. Does this mean the new sensor has the upgraded contact fingers in it or will I need to worry about the fix later on down the road?
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Post by aarcuda on Mar 15, 2008 19:32:50 GMT -6
Dang! my 99's fuel gauge just started jumping like this. I ordered my part today- I'll fix it next weekend
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Post by aarcuda on Mar 30, 2008 20:07:16 GMT -6
the fix was a complete success. The only real hard part of the fix is getting that dang locking ring off to remove the pump. I used a rod and a hammer (I tried using a piece of wood but the wood just kept splitting). I suppose the make a tool for it but I used the primitive pete method
I used a C clamp and a small diameter screw to press the bushing out and then used the old bushing and the c-clamp to press the new bushing and arm back in.
Works great. There was NO WAY techroline or any snake oil was going to fix this. the finger were worn down and were gone completely.
I recommend anyone who notices thei fuel gauge jumping to fix this asap as its obvious that once the contacts have worn down, the sharp edges on the arm are going to destroy the resistor element in a short while
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2008 18:07:45 GMT -6
I followed the directions on here and it worked perfectly. Like others mentioned, the ring holding the unit in was a pain in the @$$ to get off, but tried and true hammer and screw driver worked. Thanks to everyone for posting up input on this fix, and I'm glad I was able to take care of it myself and save big $$$$.
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Post by tinner73 on Jul 13, 2008 14:15:20 GMT -6
big thanks!!!
i followed the instructions to the letter and it worked like a charm. my '97 with 69k miles on it now has one more issue to tackle. heated driver's seat doesn't work....but i have some time.
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g26
Aurora Groupie
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Post by g26 on Dec 15, 2008 16:34:57 GMT -6
would this work for a gas gauge that is stuck on 1/8 tank??? It will not move up or down do matter the ammount of gas. Thanks,
G26
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Post by robaurora01 on Dec 15, 2008 16:47:29 GMT -6
its the same issue I don't see why not
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g26
Aurora Groupie
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Post by g26 on Dec 15, 2008 16:56:45 GMT -6
Would it be just as easy or maybe easier to install a used fuel pump assembly??? this is for a 97 Aurora...
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Post by cooldep on Dec 16, 2008 7:23:01 GMT -6
Hello, I had the same problem with my 2002, 3.5 at about 77,000 miles. So I tried the cheaper remedy idea, Chevron Injector Cleaner with Techron. I got it at Auto Zone for $6 I think it was. Well after about 1000 miles it seems to have worked out fine. Who knows if it will last but its working now. I still set my "Trip Odometer" in case but its working and it feels good to know how much gas I have....What a nightmare....Olds (GM) should have fixed that (Recall) when it came out.
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Post by robaurora01 on Dec 16, 2008 8:54:41 GMT -6
I personally use my "est fuel left" more then anything esle
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g26
Aurora Groupie
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Post by g26 on Dec 16, 2008 10:40:36 GMT -6
I too use the est fuel left, but those last miles it just reads "low fuel" If driving conservative I can get 100 miles or more when that comes on...or if driving like an idiot or in traffic maybe only 20 miles. I will try Techron and or Lucas fuel additive first...then if that doesn't work will try the single part replacement or a used fuel pump assymbly.
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Post by fairlane on Sept 17, 2009 21:10:36 GMT -6
I read this whole thread and no one stated that their gas gauge doesn't work at all. Mine on a full tank still reads empty. Will this work in this situation?
I had a look under my fuel pump access panel and it's going be a pain, plus I don't know how I am going to get my big ol' belly in that trunk...
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Post by aurorabrain on Sept 17, 2009 22:19:39 GMT -6
Empty reading from the gauge is a short (0 ohms resistance) at the sensor. An open (infinate resistance) would make it read full, which is usually what happens. You can check resistance at the connector for the pump, typically on a 97 it's 40-50 ohms empty and 250 ohms full. The wires going to the sensor are usually smaller than the power and ground and are colored purple and black/white stripe. A backfround in electronics helps tremendously.
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Post by purplejag on Oct 24, 2009 19:48:20 GMT -6
yea the needle on my gas gauge hovers at half tank until you fill up then it goes to full and it works until you get around half a tank then it just stays there....is it the gauge or the sending unit?
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Post by aurora2001tan on Oct 29, 2009 19:42:53 GMT -6
You can take the fuel pump out easy enough and inspect it. If the feelers are worn down you found the problem. check the how to section. What year and mileage? put in your sig like mine.
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Post by ijroorda on Nov 1, 2009 0:21:41 GMT -6
Did this fix today; thanks for all the good tips on this thread and especially to aurorabrain for the instructions. I totally destroyed my lock ring getting the pump out, and I had to call 5 GM dealers before I found a parts department open on Saturday afternoon that had it in stock. The ring is ACDelco part # TR7, in case anyone else ends up in the same situation; RockAuto sells it for about $7.
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so far so good
