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Post by anusemoon on Nov 22, 2004 21:31:08 GMT -6
why???  |
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Post by omegaic on Nov 22, 2004 23:21:08 GMT -6
Are you driving in a hilly region? Are you in stop-and-go traffic?
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Post by JimW on Nov 23, 2004 6:56:14 GMT -6
Dont you own a classic? the one that was rear ended?
Please provide more information then just..
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Post by anusemoon on Nov 23, 2004 10:18:49 GMT -6
chicago area so stop and go traffic.................i have a 96.... my brother has a 01 3.5L... and yes i was rear ended...
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Post by JimW on Nov 23, 2004 10:49:05 GMT -6
okay, gotcha, better wait for Kobalt, he has a 3.5L 2nd gen and probably knows more about it then most  |
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Post by omegaic on Nov 23, 2004 11:00:19 GMT -6
Does it make a difference whether you're moving or sitting still?
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Post by Aurora40 on Nov 23, 2004 11:18:44 GMT -6
chicago area so stop and go traffic.................i have a 96.... my brother has a 01 3.5L... and yes i was rear ended... Well, which car is doing it? |
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Post by anusemoon on Nov 23, 2004 11:56:17 GMT -6
the 01 3.5L is doing that...
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Post by rocketman on Nov 23, 2004 13:56:30 GMT -6
I don't know how easy this will be to resolve. Logic says there is soemthing wrong with the reostat (or modern equivilant) at the sending unit. Other solutions could be around improper grounding anywhere in the gauge or sending unit. Glad I don't have that problem!
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Post by kobalt on Dec 13, 2004 18:17:08 GMT -6
Need more info. Ellaborate on gas guage jumps, under what circumstances and how often.
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Post by erw38 on Dec 13, 2004 18:28:19 GMT -6
do you hydrolics on the car?
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Post by onehunglow on Sept 26, 2005 17:14:57 GMT -6
My gas gauge will jump under the following conditions: Running down to very empty (fumes) - all of a sudden the gauge jumps up to "Full"...the DIC also indicates lots of mileage left...If you don't remember that you needed gas - you will run out..
Once you fill up, gauge returns to normal
Anyone else have this happen?
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Post by Custom88 on Sept 26, 2005 17:53:39 GMT -6
yes. Not on my Aurora but my Riviera which had the same sending unit had that problem. The sending unit will need to be replaced. Except with that car anytime I had less than half a tank it'd return back to "full."
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Post by numskull50 on Sept 19, 2006 0:05:55 GMT -6
My car i currently having the same problem did replacing the sending unit fix it?
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Post by centennialman on Sept 19, 2006 6:48:20 GMT -6
See the thread aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=nextgeneration&thread=1141762763 It describes exactly your situation. Before you replace anything, try adding a bottle of Injector Cleaner with Techron. You can get it over the counter at GM, or for 1/2 the price (or less) from Chevron. It is supposed to remove deposits from the sending unit. It worked and continues to work for me. I add a bottle at each oil change. |
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Post by dano01 on Sept 25, 2006 15:54:03 GMT -6
As stated above, try the techron as soon as possible before replacement of the sending unit. Apparently there is some silver in the sending unit that reacts with the high sulfer content in some fuels. The "techron plus" contains some additive that coats the silver temporarily which can "fix" the problem if the unit isn't too far gone. I saw this on an AAA website. It works for some, but not for others - unfortunately like me.
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Post by sgtsteve on Dec 4, 2006 14:56:00 GMT -6
My 01 3.5 (58,000 miles) just stated having this problem too. When my tank gets down to about 1/4, the gauge and the DIC goes crazy!. I have been careful to reset my trip odometer each time I fill up in order to monitor when to get gas again. My mechanic said the sending unit is probably the culprit. However, he tells me that it is connected with the fuel pump so both must be changed as the 2 components don't come separately. Bottom line is almost $600.00 for parts and about $180-200 labor. I will definitely try the cheaper route of fuel injector cleaner first. Also, 2 months ago I had my fuel filter changed so I can check that off my list of possible culprits.
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Post by macadamiaman on Dec 4, 2006 15:42:12 GMT -6
Just had this happen to me for the first time the other day. It happened when the tank was about 95% empty...
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Post by aurorabrain on Dec 4, 2006 20:25:03 GMT -6
The techron fix is a longshot, and if it does anything, its only temporary if your gauge has already started to go to full when it gets close to empty. Going to full is a high voltage condition when the contacts on the float arm separate (wear off) from the ceramic variable resistor. How many times do i need to post the easy fix for this? The part number is on this site somewhere. You can fix this problem yourself for $40 by buying a part from any GM dealer and using parts from it to replace the level sensor on your sending unit. I will make a point to post pics tomorrow, although it may be tomorrow night depending on how busy work is.
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Post by centennialman on Dec 5, 2006 8:05:28 GMT -6
How many times do i need to post the easy fix for this? The part number is on this site somewhere. You can fix this problem yourself for $40 by buying a part from any GM dealer and using parts from it to replace the level sensor on your sending unit. I will make a point to post pics tomorrow, although it may be tomorrow night depending on how busy work is. Sounds like it's time for the FAQ section, this topic being a good candidate. A-brain, hope you get a chance to post the pics. |
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Post by aurorabrain on Dec 6, 2006 0:53:11 GMT -6
Here's the promised pics of the fuel level sensor fix. To start i'm assuming that you're mechanically competent enough to remove your fuel pump(module assembly), so i won't waste time starting there. This fix is NOT for any level sensor that doesn't look EXACTLY like the one in the pictures. If you have a '95-'96 this isn't for you. After removing the pump, you will need to remove the level sensor assembly from it. There are lock clips on the connector in the top of the module(inside, not outside), and on the clip that holds the level sensor assembly on the side of the module. These both need to be removed, a small flat screwdriver should do the trick. The level sensor slides down and off once you remove the lock from the top of it, and be careful with the clips because they can be brittle. If you break the ceramic card on your level sensor, expect to buy the correct one for your car because the 'empty' and 'full' resistance values are specific to the Aurora, and certain model years. Anything OEM besides the correct level sensor for your car will read fuel level wrong. We're not replacing the actual ceramic resistor, we're replacing the contact arm that completes the circuit. To be prepared for this parts swap you need to go to your local dealer (or buy online) and get part #15824379 harness/sensor kit. This part is designed to do way more than what we're using it for, and the contents other than the parts on the sensor itself should not be attempted to be used in any way. Another great reason for using this kit is because it retails for $43.30 from any GM dealer, and GM has more than 20,000 in stock.  Once you open your box it should have something that looks like this in it.  You can disregard any and all other parts in the box. The mineral oil will be helpful for re-installing your pump, as you may want to put some on the old seal so that it seats in the tank easily. Do not use the new seal in the box, its not for your car. Once you have the level sensor out of the box, you need to figure out a way to remove the bushing that holds the float arm on the ceramic resistor. What I usually do is I set the sensor upside-down on top of 2 objects that are the same height and support the entire part except the float arm. Doing this you can use a punch, or other object (phillips screwdriver) to press the bushing out of the assembly. When you're done doing this you will have the part you need.  The gray piece is the only part out of the entire box that you'll be using.  The small metal 'fingers' have been redesigned and no longer wear off like the old design used to. If you use these very basic instructions and disassemble your level sensor, replace the plastic float arm, and them reassemble everything, you will end up with a "good as new" fuel gauge. Doing this you will have saved over $100 on parts alone. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to answer them. I know i haven't been very thorough in explaining this procedure, but i'm sure you guys out there can figure it out. I did (once upon a time), and it only took me 3 tries to get it right ;D There is no GM procedure for doing this, they want you to spend the money and get the correct part for your car.... |
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Post by sgtsteve on Dec 6, 2006 17:11:48 GMT -6
Is this just for 95 model year or will this also work for my 01 3.5? My mechanic wants to replace sensor and pump combination.
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Post by aurorabrain on Dec 6, 2006 17:42:00 GMT -6
This is NOT for a '95 or 96. If your level sensor looks similar to the one in the pictures it WILL work.
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Post by Custom88 on Dec 6, 2006 22:03:41 GMT -6
thanks for the great write-up AB!! I added it to our sticky at the top of the page.  |
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Post by nckenk on Dec 18, 2006 6:33:03 GMT -6
I have a 2001 3.5 Aurora that was exhibiting the jumping gas gauge issue (once the tank got to about 1/3, the gauge would hold steady and then show fuller as the level went down). Per Aurorabrain's post, I ordered the kit from www.gmpartsdirect.com (total was about $33 with shipping and tax). Here's the steps I followed to r&r the piece: Disconnect the battery. Remove carpet from trunk Remove gas tank access panel (right rear of trunk) (7 mm bolts) Open gas cap to relieve as much pressure as possible prior to removing fuel lines from pump. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connectors (2) (have paper towel under the line to catch gas) Disconnect fuel lines (pinch tabs while pushing line toward pump to release) I used a hammer&screwdriver to twist the cap holding the pump in place. It took a good deal of force to back it off, but with patience and care it eventually came off. Carefully remove pump assbly. from gas tank, the float arm is toward the front of the car. Removing it slowly allowed for most of the gas to drain into the tank. Have shop towels at the ready to catch drips. Once the pump was removed, I put a plastic tub in the hole to contain the fumes. I then referred to the "aurorabrain" post above to swap in the new float pick-up piece. Installation was the reverse of disassembly. Good Luck (I could see the end of one of my pick-ups was worn down). This is a really creative and frugal way to deal with this issue! Thanks Aurorabrain for the tip!!! |
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Post by Custom88 on Dec 18, 2006 9:57:40 GMT -6
how deep is the pump assembly in all once removed? I ask because I have limited height in my drunk due to an audio setup. Do you need the full height of the trunk to get the pump out? Or will a little under 2 feet suffice?
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Post by aurorabrain on Dec 18, 2006 11:16:29 GMT -6
Its probably around a foot high or so. The problem with removal is that you can't pull it straight out, it has to be tipped to the side to clear the float arm.
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Post by aurora2001tan on Dec 27, 2006 19:37:51 GMT -6
;Dtechron is a wonder drug for the combustion engine!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by sgtsteve on Dec 27, 2006 20:46:40 GMT -6
Well I tried the Techron without luck. Didn't have the mechanical confidence to try nckenk's and Autobrain's formula for repair so I took my car to the dealer. However, I was appreciative of the info because I at least knew enough to tell the dealer that I knew they could access the sensor through the trunk instead of dropping the tank. Thus saving money on labor. Replacement of complete sensor and labor cost a total of $400.00. I consider it a Christmas present to myself.
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Post by kobrak on Dec 28, 2006 19:31:12 GMT -6
Folks, I've had this apart and the problem is the fingers wear. I tried to very carefully rebend what was left of the fingers.......it did not work. What autobrain says is correct....I ended up dumping fuel all over my trunk:) I wasn't paying attention to the fact fuel is sitting in the top of the canister. Custom88, I believe, if you have any gap at all between your subs, you just might be able to sneak this thing out. It would b tight, but I think you are good. One other thing.......Mine had a rubber gasket that stayed at the opening. I almost lost the hing down the tank when I went to re-install.
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