mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jun 8, 2013 18:31:36 GMT -6
bypass works like a charm now i gotta do some more wiring and ill be good to go. so heres some questions, what could possibly screw up the signal? how close does the rfid tag have to work? and last would this work without remote start? What could screw up the RFID signal? Nothing if you the latched relay setup. Without the latching setup if the rfid tag goes out of range the security light will illuminate while driving. The RFID tag has range of about 3 inches. It's short. That's the point. Just like a transponder key the reader is around the ignition. Yes, it works without a remote start. one more think I think the rfid would better for door locks. I know this is the vats post but rfid would be good to unlock the doors. But as far as vats goes its up to personal preference, it just matters what you want. I like bobsblue idea but if it were to disconnect a sensor or whatever, what residual affects would that have. btw sall how would you program rfid towork for the doors. Make a new post if necessary please. Why would it be better for unlocking doors? Realize a standard VATS bypass or bypass with switch leaves your car more vulnerable than this!! This is inherently the same as a 2G transponder setup. I'm curious to know why one would think a resistor string and switch is better than using RFID? Sure you can make more complicated and make it when the RFID tag goes out of range it kills injector pulse or something or put trans in limp mode. This is all something that the security does NOT do from factory and for a very obvious reason. It's dangerous. I'm not saying RFID is the safest method either... Just fun little project. Hooking RFID to module to unlock doors... simple. RFID out to door actuator solenoid. pardon my word choice. not that it would be better, it would just a cool add on to make lol
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Post by sall on Jun 8, 2013 19:27:21 GMT -6
Haha sorry don't mean to be brash. One can always use the same RFID module to trigger VATS ByPass and Unlock Doors with the same swipe . They sell RFID remote start/keyless entry systems though. Homebrew is fun but why build it when one can be bought likely smaller in size and overall cheaper when R&D is a factor. They will have a longer RFID range and a slew of options.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Nov 23, 2014 17:01:08 GMT -6
This is exactly what I needed my car never gave me any warnings it just completely stop cutting on but now I know how to take care of the issue.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Nov 27, 2014 7:14:44 GMT -6
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Nov 27, 2014 10:56:03 GMT -6
It sure looks like it, but the keys it comes with may not be (there are 12 codes, it probably won't be) the correct key code for your car. I would check which key code you have at the dealer (or simply measure the resistance with a multimeter) and have the eBay seller do the same.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using ProBoards
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Post by sall on Nov 27, 2014 11:22:30 GMT -6
That looks like it. Those are just pattern keys though. Still have to get proper resistor chipped key and have it cut. A bypass is easier and less expensive. As in pennies. Just not as safe, but this is decades old tech here anyways.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Nov 27, 2014 13:35:56 GMT -6
ok thanks
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
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Post by bobsblue95 on Dec 10, 2014 13:42:33 GMT -6
It's also possible to offset the resistance of the "wrong" key to make the computer think it's right.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Dec 10, 2014 16:44:02 GMT -6
I already got my ignition switch replaced and the car will crank but the key dont wanna stay in the on position i have to turn the key a certain for it stay on.
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Post by sall on Dec 11, 2014 7:03:11 GMT -6
You had the ignition cylinder installed, and matching OEM resistor valued key cut?
Sounds like improperly installed ignition cylinder or bad ignition switch. The switch is behind the cylinder.
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
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Post by bobsblue95 on Dec 11, 2014 12:10:37 GMT -6
I believe that detent action is provided by the electrical switch itself, not the key/tumbler assembly. I had the same problem (as have many GM owners apparently) but I replaced both the switch and tumbler assembly. I used the ones from my parts car, so I had to add a resistor to make my new key appear to the computer to have the same resistance as the original.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Dec 11, 2014 18:37:39 GMT -6
You had the ignition cylinder installed, and matching OEM resistor valued key cut? Sounds like improperly installed ignition cylinder or bad ignition switch. The switch is behind the cylinder. Yes the car runs fine its just the key when trying to crank it up. Imma take the car to my mechanic in the morning and have him look at it.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Dec 11, 2014 18:39:24 GMT -6
I believe that detent action is provided by the electrical switch itself, not the key/tumbler assembly. I had the same problem (as have many GM owners apparently) but I replaced both the switch and tumbler assembly. I used the ones from my parts car, so I had to add a resistor to make my new key appear to the computer to have the same resistance as the original. I had bought the lock cylinder and the key was cut just like the old key and had the chip put in the new key.
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Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
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Post by Randy T. on Dec 12, 2014 7:03:32 GMT -6
The ignition switch is a different part than the lock cylinder, the lock cylinder is where your key goes in, the ignition switch is a separate part that provides power to everything, it turns with the ignition switch. Ignition switch replacement.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Dec 12, 2014 8:34:59 GMT -6
The ignition switch is a different part than the lock cylinder, the lock cylinder is where your key goes in, the ignition switch is a separate part that provides power to everything, it turns with the ignition switch. Ignition switch replacement. It's the black thing with the wires right? Just want to be sure.
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Post by sall on Dec 12, 2014 8:59:52 GMT -6
Below the scissors. Above the flashlight and knife.
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Dec 12, 2014 18:53:56 GMT -6
ok thanks
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 7, 2016 22:01:08 GMT -6
Has anyone done this to a 1999 Aurora? I bought some resistors and am going to try and get Dad's car working tomorrow... The old girl has 280,000 miles but still works minus the VATS BS!
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Post by sall on Jun 8, 2016 6:32:56 GMT -6
Has anyone done this to a 1999 Aurora? I bought some resistors and am going to try and get Dad's car working tomorrow... The old girl has 280,000 miles but still works minus the VATS BS! Works for 95-99.
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 8, 2016 17:10:23 GMT -6
Hey guys my dad and I (mainly my father) as I am in a wheelchair opened up the Aurora today but we are concerned about which wire to cut. My dad took a bunch of photos of the 99 Aurora and uploaded them here s135.photobucket.com/user/Kamakzie/library/aurora hopefully you guys can tell us which wire we want as we are pretty novice.
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 8, 2016 17:12:03 GMT -6
PS we found a gray wire but it has four wires inside not two.
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Post by sall on Jun 8, 2016 17:52:40 GMT -6
kamakzie, you should be able to follow the ignition harness(the thick 10AWG wire bundle) to the fire wall. There at the connector is the easiest place to find the correct wires. You can see the two wires before they go through the insulation coming out of the connector. The connector has a (7mm? been awhile) bolt in it. Looks like this. I know there is a picture showing the wires at connector somewhere but the best I could find. Hope that helps. EDIT: Here it is.
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 8, 2016 18:15:55 GMT -6
So the dark gray wire should be in there somewhere or do some years have different colors for the vats wire?
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 8, 2016 18:44:03 GMT -6
Oh okay so I guess you have to take that bolt out to be able to see the two wires. Should that be where it is cut or wait till it gets to the outer insulation?
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Post by sall on Jun 8, 2016 20:03:49 GMT -6
No you do not have to remove the connector to find the wires. I may help though. Just remove the sound insulator and knee bolster and locate the plug. The two wires before they enter the insulation should be in the upper left of the connector/s. I would cut the line about half way to the ignition switch.
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skizo
Aurora Passenger
WOT ... is there any other way?
Posts: 278
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Post by skizo on Jun 8, 2016 22:26:50 GMT -6
Bookmarked this one a while back, but lucky me ... no problems so far. (Famous last words, right? <G> Couple comments ... I'd think rather than trying to track down a specific resistor, just use a VR ... Get one that will cover the range of your key, adjust it with a VOM, then lock it down with a dab of hot glue or some other such non-conductive goop. For vibration resistance, I'd think a small ball of windshield mounting rope would do the trick. I've always got a roll of that laying about - comes in handy for all sorts of stuff.
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 8, 2016 22:45:15 GMT -6
skizo, I don't see a link for that gizmo. How do you install it? Looks interesting.
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Post by sall on Jun 9, 2016 5:31:31 GMT -6
It is a potentiometer or variable resistor. One in the correct range will work to dial it in with a DMM, but personally rather use a single static resistor. I have thousands of resistors(and pots) in my stash though. Ha yeah butyl comes in handy quite a bit!
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 9, 2016 17:05:52 GMT -6
Well we finally got done with it and it seems to work fine, thank you guys very much for your help.
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Post by kamakzie on Jun 9, 2016 17:46:04 GMT -6
My dad just tried to start it again to go somewhere and it wouldn't start LOL. He thinks the battery just ran down because we had started it several times and while working had the door open so the lights might have ran the battery down. So he is going to charge it overnight tonight and hopefully that will make it work again ha ha! He was able to jumpstart the car so it definitely was the battery
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