Post by alecbeaton on Dec 7, 2005 12:20:20 GMT -6
Well as you all know i dis-assembled the top half of my motor to get at what i thought was a bad starter. It was just a wire, but i'm doing a write-up so people who need it can have it. Hopefully it'll get put into the Maintenance post.
Sorry for no pictures, i'll be as explanitory as i can. There may be minor differences in the 96-99 years, this is specifically for a '95. Hopefully it's close.
1: Open hood and remove plastic heat/noise shield from top of motor (4 plastic nuts)
2: On the passenger side of the engine, near the front valve cover, you will see a small box labeled "Battery +" in red letters. Pop that cover. This is the lead to the starter. If you don't want to have to pull the backseat for the battery just remove the nut and pull this wire.
3: Remove the silencer and intake tube from the airbox (the box itself can remain).
4: Label and remove the 4 front spark plug wires. I lay them down on the hood and hold them with the wiper.
5: Disconnect the TPS sensor (side of TB, away from passenger compartment)
6: On the '95, disconnect wiring to the Idle Air Motor (96-99 have it in the TB, different wire).
7: Disconnect the wiring look for the Fuel Injectors, it's down and slightly rear of the TB itself, large round plug.
8: Disconnect the fuel lines at the firewall. You can leave them on the fuel rail.
9: Undo coolant line from underneath the TB (spring clamp) Pull off and let drain out while you work.
10: Remove all vacuum lines from TB (one large on the side, 2 small up top, 1 or 2 more i forget).
11: Now is a good time to check the vacuum port on top of the TB. It just unclips. Mine had several cracks in it.
12: Remove EGR pipe from side of TB. It bends out of your way, but go easy on it.
13: NOW check to make sure all your vacuum lines and wiring it out of the way and not going to fight you as you move the intake out of the way.
14: If you havn't already, remove the 4 studs that are the supports for both the top cover, and the hold downs for the fuel rail.
15: Remove bolts for the intake. 10mm. I believe there is 4 of them per side. I know if you have had the fuel recall done that they re-locate the FPR to the front. Right over a bolt. Just use a short open-end wrench and you'll be fine. They're not tight.
16: Some of the bolts will come out, some may not. I had 2 or 3 that wouldn't come. That's fine just make sure you have them completely backed out.
17: This part is probably easiest with two people, but one should be able do it with not to much trouble. Grab the TB mouth and the end of the intake (where the pressure-relief door is) and lift straight up. The whole unit should come up.
18: Rotate the whole thing counter-clockwise. That's with the TB facing the passenger compartment and the pressure-door facing the front.
19: If you're like me, there will be tons of leaves and stuff down there, take this opportunity to vacuum it out. Also if you feel compelled, you could clean all the intake ports too. Take rags or paper towels or tape or SOMETHING and put it over the intake ports, don't want anything down there.
20: Remove the starter with the wires still attached, this is why you removed that B+ lead before hand, RIIIGHT? It's two 10mm bolts, plainly obvious. There isn't any hidden or anything.
21: Pull the starter back and up, and rest it on the valve cover. Use a 14mm socket for the main lead and a 8mm for the trigger lead.
22: Put the wires on the new starter first, then place it back into the car.
23: Installation is reverse of removal! Also, check to see how your intake gaskets are. Mine were OK, but it might be a good idea to replace them. I know there was a marking on manifold saying it was replaced at 14k miles.
I hope this helps anyone, i know the dealer will want at least $500 to do this job, plus the starter. I priced a 2 year guarantee starter at $235, and the labor took me about 2 hours.
EDIT: This job can be accomplished easily without fully removing the intake. See below
I had to change my starter yesterday and figured I'd try to save a few steps.
Turns out you don't need to disconnect much from the intake manifold to be able to lift it enough to access the starter...
All I disconnected/removed was the Intake tube, brake booster vacuum hose, PCV and front EGR tube.
From the O.P. list, skip steps 5-13 basically.
I used a jack handle to hold it up while I swapped starters. Worked well and would also be a good way to spot a leaky injector.
Just going to second (actual maybe this would be a "third") you can in fact lift the intake enough to change the starter.
My list of removals
- the three vacuum hoses that run to the top of the intake near the throttle body
- brake booster hose
- EGR tube (removed one end and carefully bent out of the way) (13mm bolt)
- the four front spark plug wires
- the intake tube
- on '98 and '99 there is a fuel rail ground wire on the far left side near the power steering pump that needs to be removed (13mm bolt)
I held mine up using a bungee cord to the hood latch.
Getting the whole thing lifted up enough to access the starter will take 10-15 mins if that. Really easy job.
I'd also recommend cleaning the manifold gasket mating surfaces to prevent leaks. Tighten the intake back down starting from the center and working out in a circular pattern (torquing down to 89 IN/lbs)
I'd surmise that you could also change the backfire valve in this fashion too
Sorry for no pictures, i'll be as explanitory as i can. There may be minor differences in the 96-99 years, this is specifically for a '95. Hopefully it's close.
1: Open hood and remove plastic heat/noise shield from top of motor (4 plastic nuts)
2: On the passenger side of the engine, near the front valve cover, you will see a small box labeled "Battery +" in red letters. Pop that cover. This is the lead to the starter. If you don't want to have to pull the backseat for the battery just remove the nut and pull this wire.
3: Remove the silencer and intake tube from the airbox (the box itself can remain).
4: Label and remove the 4 front spark plug wires. I lay them down on the hood and hold them with the wiper.
5: Disconnect the TPS sensor (side of TB, away from passenger compartment)
6: On the '95, disconnect wiring to the Idle Air Motor (96-99 have it in the TB, different wire).
7: Disconnect the wiring look for the Fuel Injectors, it's down and slightly rear of the TB itself, large round plug.
8: Disconnect the fuel lines at the firewall. You can leave them on the fuel rail.
9: Undo coolant line from underneath the TB (spring clamp) Pull off and let drain out while you work.
10: Remove all vacuum lines from TB (one large on the side, 2 small up top, 1 or 2 more i forget).
11: Now is a good time to check the vacuum port on top of the TB. It just unclips. Mine had several cracks in it.
12: Remove EGR pipe from side of TB. It bends out of your way, but go easy on it.
13: NOW check to make sure all your vacuum lines and wiring it out of the way and not going to fight you as you move the intake out of the way.
14: If you havn't already, remove the 4 studs that are the supports for both the top cover, and the hold downs for the fuel rail.
15: Remove bolts for the intake. 10mm. I believe there is 4 of them per side. I know if you have had the fuel recall done that they re-locate the FPR to the front. Right over a bolt. Just use a short open-end wrench and you'll be fine. They're not tight.
16: Some of the bolts will come out, some may not. I had 2 or 3 that wouldn't come. That's fine just make sure you have them completely backed out.
17: This part is probably easiest with two people, but one should be able do it with not to much trouble. Grab the TB mouth and the end of the intake (where the pressure-relief door is) and lift straight up. The whole unit should come up.
18: Rotate the whole thing counter-clockwise. That's with the TB facing the passenger compartment and the pressure-door facing the front.
19: If you're like me, there will be tons of leaves and stuff down there, take this opportunity to vacuum it out. Also if you feel compelled, you could clean all the intake ports too. Take rags or paper towels or tape or SOMETHING and put it over the intake ports, don't want anything down there.
20: Remove the starter with the wires still attached, this is why you removed that B+ lead before hand, RIIIGHT? It's two 10mm bolts, plainly obvious. There isn't any hidden or anything.
21: Pull the starter back and up, and rest it on the valve cover. Use a 14mm socket for the main lead and a 8mm for the trigger lead.
22: Put the wires on the new starter first, then place it back into the car.
23: Installation is reverse of removal! Also, check to see how your intake gaskets are. Mine were OK, but it might be a good idea to replace them. I know there was a marking on manifold saying it was replaced at 14k miles.
I hope this helps anyone, i know the dealer will want at least $500 to do this job, plus the starter. I priced a 2 year guarantee starter at $235, and the labor took me about 2 hours.
EDIT: This job can be accomplished easily without fully removing the intake. See below
Turns out you don't need to disconnect much from the intake manifold to be able to lift it enough to access the starter...
All I disconnected/removed was the Intake tube, brake booster vacuum hose, PCV and front EGR tube.
From the O.P. list, skip steps 5-13 basically.
I used a jack handle to hold it up while I swapped starters. Worked well and would also be a good way to spot a leaky injector.
Just going to second (actual maybe this would be a "third") you can in fact lift the intake enough to change the starter.
My list of removals
- the three vacuum hoses that run to the top of the intake near the throttle body
- brake booster hose
- EGR tube (removed one end and carefully bent out of the way) (13mm bolt)
- the four front spark plug wires
- the intake tube
- on '98 and '99 there is a fuel rail ground wire on the far left side near the power steering pump that needs to be removed (13mm bolt)
I held mine up using a bungee cord to the hood latch.
Getting the whole thing lifted up enough to access the starter will take 10-15 mins if that. Really easy job.
I'd also recommend cleaning the manifold gasket mating surfaces to prevent leaks. Tighten the intake back down starting from the center and working out in a circular pattern (torquing down to 89 IN/lbs)
I'd surmise that you could also change the backfire valve in this fashion too
